Camping and Caravanning UK

Wild Camping In Scotland - Part 3

Midge Territory

Heading north through the hustle and bustle of Glasgow centre offers the chance to stop off and get any supplies you may have forgotten. Your first night under the stars will provide you with a reasonable idea of your comfort levels and if you do have any problems then Glasgow will provide all you need.

Loch Lomond

Following the A83 the road runs parallel with Loch Lomond and provides a multitude of scenic spots for relaxing and taking pictures. A particularly good spot along this route resides at Inveruglas towards the north end of the loch. It has to be said that this area is full of forestry areas and although you’ll see the odd tent pitched near the waters edge it would be considered a little too public for the likes of most wilderness campers. You will also find that most of the routes up to the forestry are blocked by the forestry commission gates which cannot be opened. Parking up and scaling the steep embankments though will alleviate your DVT and give you the chance to come face to face with the dreaded midge. Unlike mosquitoes the midges do not secrete a numbing substance when they latch onto their victim, and the result is comparable to that of a nettle sting. Of course the downside is that they swarm and are attracted by CO2 given off from when we exhale. Car fumes also seem to attract them and as a result it is advisable to park up some distance from where you pitch your tent as flailing arms will not help the construction process.

Falls of Falloch

Meandering down the hills and feeding Loch Lomond from its many tributaries is the River Falloch which appears to be a popular attraction for the extreme kayaker. The entrance to the falls which is a couple of miles north of the loch is easy to miss as access to the track and car park is obscured by a gentle bend in the road. This is useful in a sense because unless you’ve pre-planned your visit to the falls, the chances are you will miss it. After parking up, there are various footpaths winding around the side of the river to explore. From the evidence of small wooden footbridges and newly installed fencing it is apparent that the site is lovingly cared for and maintained by the local authorities. That said the rocks can be deceivingly slippery by the waters edge. It is possible when the river is not in full flow to traverse the rocks to the opposite side which provides a steep but easy climb to the top of the falls. From here you can either take the plunge from the uppermost ledge or simply relax in one of the two sheltered pools. The water, though cold is immensely invigorating and because the falls are so well sheltered in a valley with overhanging trees there’s very little wind, cold or otherwise, to deal with. A spare pair of trainers is a good idea just in case you unintentionally lose your footing.

Camping at the site from what I can tell is tolerated so long as it’s only a night and you don’t take up too much space. As per usual, pitch late and pack early as visitors tend to arrive around 9am as we found out after pitching our tent behind the Information Placard. Possibly not the best choice in hindsight although rather than causing a few raised eyebrows we ended up taking orders for cups of tea and got chatting to some tourists from Australia. One of whom had fallen victim to the dreaded midge and looked in a pretty bad way. His extremities had been savaged and he had endured 2 days of ill health. It just shows that it pays to be prepared for these blighters.

Bridge of Orchy

Though not fully explored, this area of Central Scotland offers some gob smacking views as you cross the bridge to the West Highlands. The road descends to the bridge on open land and gives rise to a steady ascent on the other side. There are many viewing spots along this road where you can pull in to stretch your legs and admire the view or take photographs. Alternatively there is a luxury hotel, called The Bridge of Orchy hotel situated in the pass. A welcome break of hot showers and soft beds for those who have had a rough night or bad weather has prompted a change of plan.

Because of this being the main route to the west highlands, also known as the West Highland Way, it can get fairly busy, and although there are patches of trees dotted around the landscape they are dense and impenetrable. Alternatively though, park up, pack a rucksack and you’re bound to find a picturesque spot within a couple of miles or so.

Loch Duich – Eilean Donan Castle

Leaving the Bridge and passing through Rannoch Moor, the awe inspiring Glen Coe and heading north past Fort William you are presented with 2 roads to the west. The first will bring you to the Mallaig Ferry onto Skye and the second will take you to Ardelve and Loch Duich. Take the 2^nd option at Invergarry (A87) and enjoy the views as you wind through the valleys past Loch Cluanie and further on the Five Sisters. Camping in this area allows for an early start and a full day’s light on the Isle of Skye. There are several good spots in this area, one of which is past the castle, over the bridge, past the Loch Duich Hotel, and take the A890 up a steep road towards Loch Carron, which is actually a fresh water dam. There are places to park up the length of the road, and then it’s a case of a short walk through relatively rough ground to a decent pitch. The grass in this region is fairly dense and if dry fires would best be avoided. The lack of woodland though does provide some stunning 360° views from this spot.

Shops: The nearest town is Kyle just a couple of miles down the road and though small offers the chance to stock up on supplies at the Co-Op. For anyone interested in fishing there’s also a reasonably good hardware store which supplies everything you’ll need. Spinning from the edge of the loch has proved the most successful method as most ground fishing tackle will fall victim to weed and rock. Porpoises are a frequent sighting and if you’re lucky you may even see sea salmon leaping full length out of the water which is quite a sight on a sunny day. (You do not need a license for fishing in sea lochs)

The Castle: Eilean Donan is the most photographed castle in Scotland and has the reputation of being in the film Highlander. Shot from the hill above the castle, the road is totally obscured and therefore it is worth venturing to the top via the slip road opposite the castle entrance to fully appreciate the glory. The castle is open to visitors during the day and is illuminated in the evening with the bridge (about 10-11pm).

Isle of Skye

The God’s Playground

The passage to Skye is open via three entrances. The first as previously mentioned is via the Mallaig ferry, the second is the Glenelg ferry and the third which joins the town of Kyle is the Skye bridge, which has only recently ceased being a toll bridge due to increased pressure from Skye’s inhabitants. For more information on the bridge see http://www.skye-bridge.co.uk/

Skye’s roads are very narrow in places with blind spots aplenty, and although the scenery is eye wateringly impressive it really pays to keep your eyes on the road until you find a good spot to stop and take it all in. The same goes for most of Scotland as it’s not rare to see evidence of accidents along the roadside. The presence of wild deer roaming Scotland’s roads in the late evening and early mornings is partially to blame for this and on more than one occasion I have witnessed close collisions with such beasts.

Elgol

Making your way to Elgol, one of the most quaint fishing villages you’ll ever see, you will go through Broadford which is Skye’s biggest town and gives one the chance to buy souvenirs and midge repellent, should you need it. Heading out of Broadford take your first left onto the B8083 and keep your eyes peeled for an old church cemetery. Now obviously nobody wants to camp in a cemetery, but for the brave souls out there wanting a night to remember, the hill behind, seating a giant menhir, offers a particularly gorgeous site to pitch. There is evidence of camp fires on the hill so it’s a safe bet that you won’t run into any trouble. (Just be sure your tent lines are tight as winds may be brisk…. Ideal for keeping the midges away)

Elgol itself offers a great view from behind the Cuillin Hills (they’re actually mountains!!) and if you decide to camp there, you’ll be in for a treat at sunset, good weather permitting. You can easily park up at the docks and be assured that your vehicle is safe while venturing the area for a suitable spot. It is also worth mentioning that if you see the fishermen coming in from the days catch they may be able to give you a few fresh mackerel for breakfast. Ask for Alistair who owns the fleet and he’ll be sure to offer you information on a place to camp out.

Conclusion

The Last Word in Safety

Mobiles: It goes without saying that you should always inform people of where you’re going and always take a mobile phone with you. Make sure you keep it wrapped in a sealed, zip lock, plastic bag and if possible carry a spare battery. Reception in the highlands in general is not good due to the undulating terrain. However in emergencies, scaling the nearest hill should provide ample signal.

Fires: When constructing your fire be sure to dig two to three inches below the ground and remove the turf or topsoil intact. Place this away from the fire as to ensure it does not get damaged. This way, when you’re clearing the debris from your fire in the morning it is simply a case of replacing the turf in the position it was cut.

If you’re building a fire on peaty ground try and fill the bottom of the hole with stones as this will prevent the damp from putting the fire out. It will also protect the peat from overheating and causing underground fires. If possible it’s wise to obtain a charcoal burner which will keep your fire burning above ground level. Make sure to take ‘everything’ with you and leave the site exactly as you found it.

Utensils: Try to keep knives, mallets, spare pegs, cutlery and food in one place as that way, when it gets dark you wont be tripping over guide ropes and getting a face full of tent peg when you misplaced your torch.

Above all respect the wilderness that surrounds you and the inhabitants of the towns you visit. Be cautious but never sly, and remember that hunting is very much active and if you’re venturing off the beaten track then it is worth checking Hill Phones stag stalking line which aims to inform walkers about shooting zones. http://www.snh.org.uk/hillphones/index.asp